Should I Choose A Medicare Advantage Plan?

As you near retirement age, you may find yourself flooded with brochures and commercials about what Medicare option is right for you.

You know you need to sign up for something, but with so many choices how do you determine which healthcare plan will provide adequate coverage?

The Two Medicare Options

There are two ways you can acquire Medicare coverage. You can choose to have the Government as your primary source of insurance, known as Original Medicare. Or you can opt to have a private insurance company provide you with similar coverage through a Medicare Advantage plan.

The Original Medicare program (Parts A and B) is offered directly through the Government. Medicare Parts A and B typically offers limited protection for medical expenses during retirement, so many retirees opt to seek additional benefits in the form of a Medicare supplement (Medigap) policy.

A Medicare Advantage plan (Part C) on the other hand is a private health insurance policy, underwritten by a private health insurance company, which replaces your original Medicare coverage (Parts A & B). With Medicare Part C, only the private company is responsible for paying your medical claims – the government is no longer responsible for those expenses.

Legally, the private company has to provide you with “equal or better” coverage than what you would get with original Medicare. Some plans go above and beyond original Medicare by offering additional benefits, such as vision, dental, and prescription drugs (Part D).

Of course, these benefits can be purchased even if you have original Medicare, so it’s wise to compare the costs carefully.

Is A Medicare Advantage Plan Right For Me?

The first significant element in assessing if an Advantage plan is a fit for you is your health history.

If you expect your health care expenses to be high, you may consider an Advantage plan because most Advantage plans have a yearly limit on your out-of-pocket costs for medical expenses.

The limit is known as your out-of-pocket maximum, and after you reach it, you pay nothing for the rest of the year. With Original Medicare, there is no out-of-pocket maximum, meaning an extended stay in the hospital could leave you with the entire bill. Although, there are generally limits if you have a Medigap Policy.

Another key factor when determining whether or not an Advantage plan is right for you will be your travel plans during retirement. Medicare Advantage Plans are usually structured as HMOs, and therefore, you are limited to a network and geographic area that services are provided.

You may be limited to a selection of physicians that you can use, forcing you to stop seeing a long-time trusted physician who is not part of the network.

Also, if you plan to spend winter or summer months in another location, you may have limited coverage (except in emergency situations) forcing you to return home for treatment.

Keep in mind, these are only a few considerations for determining a coverage that is right for you. You should also consider your budget, medical needs, and coverage preferences when picking a plan.

Ways To Save For College

If you have a child, you’ve probably put some thought into their future. And a big part of that future, at least for many kids, will be a college education.

When I calculate the future cost of a four-year education at an in-state public institution for a newborn, I am finding that it’ll take nearly $250,000 for them to earn a bachelor’s degree. And the cost of attendance only continues to rise!

Luckily, children have multiple ways to fund education either through part-time jobs, grants, scholarships, or student loans and they have many earning years ahead of them to afford financing education.

However, you can begin saving toward their education now to help pay for some of those future expenses and reduce the amount of debt your child will have to incur.

Below are some of the ways you can begin saving for your kid’s education.

Side Note: Before you just begin saving, make sure you have a clear picture of what you are saving for. I have an education funding conversation with my clients before they open any type of account. We explore their philosophy toward funding education for their children, what type of college they want to save for (private vs. public), and how much they want to fund (50%, 100%, certain dollar amount). Then I run an education funding analysis which calculates how much they need to save to fund their education goal.

529 Savings Plan

A 529 is an education savings plan. It allows you to invest money into an account, let it grow tax-deferred, and then withdraw it for qualified education expenses without having to pay taxes on it. It’s a pretty sweet deal.

The funds in 529 accounts can be used for any eligible institution, in any state, so there won’t be any issues if your child decides to go to school somewhere other than the state your 529 is in.

In fact, the money can even be used for foreign schools or vocational schools if college isn’t right for them.

Some states even offer incentives for contributing to their 529. Indiana taxpayers can get a state income tax credit equal to 20% of their contributions to a CollegeChoice 529 account, up to $1,000 per year.

Usually, the amount you can contribute in total to a 529 plan is pretty high (up to $450,000 per beneficiary in Indiana) but will vary by state.

If you end up with unused funds in a 529 plan, these can easily be transferred to other children or any other family member to use for qualified education expenses.

However, if the funds aren’t for qualified education expenses, withdrawals will be subject to a 10% penalty, taxed as ordinary income, and any previously claimed tax credits may be owed back.

As a result of these tax implication, it is generally recommended to avoid over-funding 529 plans.

Roth IRA

I’m often asked if it makes sense to use a Roth IRA to save for college in case a child decides not to go to college. Yes, it is possible to use a Roth IRA as a combined college and retirement savings vehicle.

When needed to pay for college expenses, you simply limit withdrawals to the contributions in order to avoid paying any income taxes on the distribution. The earnings remain in the Roth IRA to pay for retirement.

Keep in mind there are limitations to using a Roth in this manner.

First, there are income limitations to contributing to a Roth IRA. In 2019, a couple that earns more than $193,000 ($122,000 for those who file single) begin to be phased out of making contributions. Above $203,000 ($137,000 for single) and you can’t contribute at all.

Secondly, those under age 50 can only contribute $6,000 to a Roth IRA each year (2019 limits).

The main problem with this approach though is the distributions count as untaxed income on the following year’s FAFSA, reducing eligibility for need-based financial aid.

It also reduces lifetime tax-free accumulations, which are particularly valuable in retirement.

Tax-Advantaged Account

Another funding option is to save to a tax-advantaged investment account (joint, individual, or trust) since these types of accounts don’t have contribution limits.

This would be similar to saving to a Roth IRA in that you could keep the money in the account and use it for retirement if your child does not attend college.

However, you still run into the possible financial aid issues that you do with the Roth IRA and you might miss out on your state’s tax incentive.

Optimal approach

In my opinion, the optimal approach would be to fund the 529 first, especially if there is a state tax incentive available. Once the 529 funding is deemed to be nearing an appropriate level based on your goals, you can save additional college funds via a Roth IRA and/or a tax-advantaged investment account (joint, individual, or trust) to ensure maximum flexibility among your various financial goals.

It is important to note that very few people fully fund their children’s education savings accounts, such as the 529, and you shouldn’t feel pressured into believing you have to in order for your child to succeed.

Like I mentioned above, children have a lot of ways of paying for their own education and — I can say from my own experience — working during college can help keep them on track.

Should I Buy Life Insurance For My Children?

Should I get life insurance for my kids? I often get asked this question from clients who are parents. 

The most straightforward and easy answer is… of course not.

Life insurance is mainly purchased as an income replacement so your spouse or children can maintain their standard of living. Or it’s often used to cover an expense(s) that survivors wouldn’t be able to pay for otherwise like a mortgage or fully funding children’s education needs.

Since children don’t have an income to replace, there really isn’t any reason to insur their lives.

it’s not just about the death benefit

However, I was recently talking with an insurance agent who has been in the industry for over 30 years. He said that insurance companies are increasingly asking for the results of direct-to-consumer genetic tests as part of their application process. 

The concern is that as prenatal and newborn genetic testing becomes more prevalent, insurance companies will be able to get their hands on the results and deny these children coverage simply for having a higher likelihood of developing a disorder in the future.

Keep in mind this is all totally legal.

As you can imagine, this changes the game when it comes to life insurance for children. It’s no longer about simple income replacement, it’s about preserving a child’s insurability in the face of never being able to acquire it in the first place.

Insurability forever

So how can you go about acquiring insurance in a way that is actually going to preserve a child’s insurability?

A whole life policy.

Whole life insurance is a permanent form of life insurance. Once you have it, and if you continue paying for it, you have it forever. Well… until death. 

I’m not usually a fan of whole life policies (or at least the way they are sold to individuals) but they do serve a special purpose in insurance planning. This being one of them.

The strategY

The strategy is simple. Purchase a whole life policy for a child as soon as possible. Preferably before any genetic testing is done.

Although, the amount the insurance company will let you purchase for a newborn typically won’t be enough for what the child actually needs as an adult.

The solution is to add a rider (an additional option to the policy) that allows the child to buy additional coverage in the future.

The options have different names – depending on the insurance company who’s providing it – but will usually be along the lines of guaranteed insurability rider, future insurability option, etc. The name doesn’t really matter, it’s the option to buy more coverage in the future that’s important.

The rider guarantees a certain amount can be bought at various ages (25, 28,31 37, 40), allowing a child to increase their coverage if necessary without having to go through any medical underwriting. That means no health questions or tests, inquiries about vocation or avocation, or anything else that may prevent them from obtaining coverage in the future. 

I asked my insurance friend how much a typical policy like this costs. He said a $100,000 whole life policy with a $100,000 guaranteed insurability rider is $300-500 per year, depending on the child’s age.

The bottom line

This can be a smart strategy to ensure you, and your children, are in control of their insurability as they age, no matter what happens in life.

However, once the child is an adult and can purchase their own policy, it will probably make financial sense for them to explore term life insurance policies to cover their insurance needs at that time.

They can continue the whole life policy as well or they can simply stop paying the premium and let the protection expire if there isn’t a need for it anymore.

Should I Refinance?

If you’re a homeowner, you may have noticed that mortgage rates have been on the decline recently and that probably means you’ve been hearing about how it’s a prime time to refinance.

People refinance for all sorts of reasons:

  • Lower interest rates, which can help you save on total interest paid over the life of the loan.
     
  • A lower monthly payment, which can make what you owe month-to-month a bit more manageable, but you may end up stretching the loan term to a longer time period and therefore owe more in interest overall.
     
  • A shorter term, which helps you save on interest but could mean a higher monthly payment.
     
  • A fixed interest rate, refinancing from an adjustable-rate mortgage to refinancing to a fixed-rate mortgage before their original interest rate adjusts.
     
  • Tap into your home equity, refinancing to tap into equity and do things like renovations.

But as with any financial decision, you need to understand how refinancing works before rushing into a decision.

How does refinancing work?

When you refinance, you are essentially taking out a new loan to pay off the old loan.

Keep in mind that you’ll likely have to pay closing fees – about 2 to 4% of the total amount you borrow – which can vary depending on the size of the mortgage and the fees you’ll be charged.

It’s always better to have cash available to pay the closing costs, but you may also be able to wrap in the closing costs in with the new mortgage.

Questions to ask yourself before refinancing

How long do I plan to stay in this home? If you’re only planning on living there for a few more years, the cost of refinancing may not be worth it. You’ll want to calculate your break-even point: how many months you need to remain in your home before the monthly savings on the new loan exceed the closing costs you’d have to pay. 

How much equity do I have currently? As you make mortgage payments and your home’s value changes over time, the amount of equity you have in the home will also change. Many lenders prefer you have at least 20% equity in your home before you refinance. Some will approve you with less, but you may not get the most favorable terms.

Am I currently paying for PMI? If you have a loan with Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) and have at least 20% equity, refinancing to a conventional loan may allow you to drop the monthly PMI payment. You may also be able to get rid of PMI by having the home reappraised too, which is much more affordable than refinancing.

How close am I to completely paying off my current mortgage? If you’ve been paying on your mortgage for a while and only have a few years left, it may not make sense to refinance. No sense in trying to save on interest when you’re so close to paying it off.

What mortgage terms would I qualify for now? It might be in your best interest to refinance so you can shorten your loan term from a 30-year rate to a 15- year mortgage at a lower interest rate. Of course, you could always self-amortize the remaining payments (make extra payments to have the loan paid off sooner) if you have the discipline to do so.

How to refinance

Refinancing is just like applying for a mortgage. Go online and get quotes from a few different lenders. Choose one that is offering the refinance options you are looking for at the most reasonable rates.

Once that’s complete, you’ll pay closing costs, sign the necessary paperwork, and begin making your new mortgage payments.

Catching The Big One

Many of us either fish, or know someone who fishes, and the tendency to focus on the “big one” or “the one that got away”.

There is something inherently natural about valuing ourselves for our biggest catch. Perhaps it boils down to a primal need to feed ourselves and our families — and the bigger the catch, the more we eat.

It’s not the size that matters

But, as I’m sure any honest fisherman will tell you, big catches happen very infrequently. Meaning if you rely on the “big fish” to eat, you may end up going hungry.

The better way to measure your success is the overall number of the fish you bring in the boat.

The more fish you reel in, and the more frequently you do so, the more likely you are to feed your family. And the best way to increase your chances of a catch?

Put more hooks in the water.

Increasing the odds

Having multiple hooks means you can use various baits and hook sizes, optimizing your chances of bringing in all types of fish.

This principle holds true for investors as well. We seem to overvalue the big wins and undervalue the end-goal of enhancing our long-term return.

We focus on the individual holdings that do really well (or poorly) but rarely take the time to think about how each individual holding affects the portfolio as a whole.

We focus so hard getting one big win, that we don’t take the time to bait the other hooks.

While baiting multiple hooks (creating a diversified portfolio) doesn’t guarantee a catch on all of them, it does increase the chances that you won’t walk away empty-handed.

And this is the single most important aspect of this analogy. While a diversified portfolio may not increase by 100% in a year, it also curtails the possibility of a dramatic decrease as well.

Meaning, you will be more likely to have steady returns that “feed” your portfolio continually each year.

conditions change

As an extra note, you’ll also have to account for the fact that water conditions change.

Not everything that works in one season will work in another.

Market trends and the economy are a lot like water conditions, they are always changing. It would be foolish to suggest a fisherman bait his hook and leave it in the water forever.

Most likely that bait will lose its appeal to the fish and won’t catch anything.

It is best practice to reel in your hook, check the bait, and change it out if it isn’t working.